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So I bought ID16 and ID20 washers, and put on ID16 ones as it fits over the rubber part of the silence block nicely.

I still see metal part of the silence block, is it normal?



Also, I see the steering cap touching the lower clamp



Hope I did it correctly.
 

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Sorry, I've just checked on my bike, the metallic part is visible. But, I think you must tighten all this more, so the instrument support is really in contact with the tee.


--
VinceLP

Hmmm thanks. Will check again.
But it seems to be touching the steering cap and I can't tighten it further... Strange
 

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I had some 1/8" (3 mm) rubber sheet lying around. Made shims between the steering head and lower u-bolt that's shaped just like the raised part of the steering head. Doesn't have to be an exact shape as long as it surrounds and doesn't cover the bolt holes. The shim thickness should be a bit thicker than your gap. Mine was ~2.7 mm.



The buzzing in the handlebars was minimized. I guess the silent blocks (bushings) were designed too soft. It's really a trial-and-error thing. You can experiment with different shapes, materials, shim locations, or torque values.
 

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... Doesn't have to be an exact shape as long as it surrounds and doesn't cover the bolt holes ...
Correction, the shim shouldn't cover the bushing hole (24 mm) so the upper washer will still make solid contact with the silent block (bushing) and the lower u-bolt protrusion (the part that the OP ground out).
 

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Hello

If you really want to have a firm contact between the handlebar mount and the tee, your shim should be metallic.

Ive checked on my bike, the instrument support doesn't touch at all the steering nut, although it comes to the same height. It really seems that your instrument support is not correctly aligned.
 

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Ok so I gave it another try, replaced one washer with a thicker spring washer on each side, and I think it worked out, even though it is still touching the steering cap



I think I know why my instrument support touches the steering cap... based on photos on this thread, I think my top triple clamp is a hair lower than other folks.. oh well, next time maybe :p
 

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... If you really want to have a firm contact between the handlebar mount and the tee, your shim should be metallic ...
I actually didn't want a completely undamped contact. Wanted just enough damping to fix the floppy mount while still have some to minimize cruising-speed buzzing on the bars.

For your approach, you'll need to check the condition of the rubber bushings once in a while. Forcing the mount downwards pushes the center pin (the metal cylinder in the middle of the bushing where the bolt goes through) a lot lower compared to the bushing casing. That's quite a large axial pressure the bushing wasn't designed to withstand long-term. Worst case the pin might tear off from the rubber, a pretty common occurrence in car suspension parts. Don't worry too much though, the handlebars won't fly off.
 

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Thanks for the details and that picture, Sam. Welcome to the forum, too!

Sarah
 

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Hello
For your approach, you'll need to check the condition of the rubber bushings once in a while. Forcing the mount downwards pushes the center pin (the metal cylinder in the middle of the bushing where the bolt goes through) a lot lower compared to the bushing casing. That's quite a large axial pressure the bushing wasn't designed to withstand long-term. Worst case the pin might tear off from the rubber, a pretty common occurrence in car suspension parts. Don't worry too much though, the handlebars won't fly off.
You're right. That's why, when I'll have a little bit more time, I will dismount entirely the handlebar and the instrument support and I'll make two metallic spacers that will be placed between the support and the tee. Doing so, and still with the large washers under the tee, the mounting will be definitively solid without any constraint on the rubber bushing.
 

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OK, so I finally got around to doing this last night. In addition to the washers under the tee, I also put washers (one per side) on the top of the tee, around the parts the Cycletime ground off. Everything tightened up very nicely. Today, I rode to a stretch of washboard dirt road where I usually am not able to keep the throttle steady due to being bounced around. What a difference! Much more control. As noted by others, also crisper steering. I noticed no change in vibration. This is a very helpful, cheap, and easy mod. I'm glad that I did it.
 

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2 washer fitted one each side under the triple, top handlebar bracket side seems to sit flush on the triple.

i do feel more vibration on the handle , but its a Desmo and it should be like so.

thanks for the mod.




Sent from my SM-N9200 using Tapatalk
 

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To add to this already long thread, I tried the mod, with out removing material (as discussed in post 27 of this thread) and it works great. Have much better control, and there is almost no noticeable added vibration in the handlebars. Thanks for the mod!
 

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i did this mod today. Simply put 3 thin washers with inside hole diameter 16mm outside 32. (post 27 in this thread) Was about 10 min work .Unbelievable difference such a quick and cheap mod can make to this bike. Absolutely mandatory for any scrambler owner. No extra vibrations felt in the handlebars . No more jerky ride, much more feeling and bike feels more stable. My passenger also could feel the difference immediately.
Did i say already that every scrambler owner needs to at least try this mod since its easily reversible to standard spec.
If you don't you are missing out BIG time.
Thanks Cycletime71 to start this thread and also thanks to Vincelp for his input.
 

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Great fix!

I was riding yesterday and pushing hard forward and backward on the handle bars at 50km/h there was noticeable uneven play in the bar mount, much more play from the left side than the right side.

I used qty 2, 7/8 ID 1-1/4 OD 1/16 thick washers to use as spacers between the triple T and bar mount (image 1), they fit perfectly over the protrusion with no lateral play. And a few 3/4 ID 1-1/8 OD washers for the 2 stem mounting bolts, about 4mm thick in total (image 2). Not sure if this is too much or too little for the stem mounting bolts (3mm may be enough) but the end result is zero play in the bar mount now.

I tried 5/8 inch washers over the stem mounting bolts but they didn't fit over the rubber protrusion. 3/4 inch (19mm) ID is definitely too large (but works) so maybe a 17mm ID washer would be a perfect fit. I will keep an eye on it to make sure there is no movement.

There is no vibration or any other bad effects of note. In fact one of my mirrors was always more blurry than the other, now both mirrors seem perfectly clear (after one ride).

I also moved my bars forward so they are more inline with the forks as it feels cooler to ride like this :cool:

45522



45523
 
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