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This is exactly what happens to me on rough roads: I feel like a ragdoll. I love the snappy throttle at low gears, but would also like to get rid of the handlebars play. Are these large washers to fill the gap when removing the stem grommets? Anyone know what size are? I may be attempting this mod next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Sorry Augusto, I've been away from this site for a little bit. It has been awhile since I made this modification and I never took a measurement of the washer that I had used. I believe it was approximately 3/4" - 7/8" internal diameter and close to 1/8" thick. It just needs to be just big enough to fit over the rubber isolator below the upper clamp. Once you get everything back together the isolator is still in place but completely bypassed. If you did the modification please report your experiences here so others know of its benefits.
 

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solid

yes this worked well for me. good solid response feel now .
Hang on...!

Too bad we have to work with second class fasteners as stock.
 

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Hello
Excuse me mate, but, what is this for? What does improve? What have you changed or added?
Reading the thread carefully, you would have understood that this mod will make your handlebar firmly mounted to the upper tee, instead of being mounted thru a vibration damping system.
According to those who performed the mod, it decreases the throttle jerking due to this soft mount of the handlebar.


I should try this, performing this mod in a reversible way. I'll let you know how I'll do that.
 

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Hello

I've done the modification this evening, in an even simpler way :
- just loose the lower bolts, remove them with their washer
- put, on each side, two washers under the tee (dimension of each washer : external diameter=33 mm, internal diameter=19 mm, thickness=3 mm)
- mounted back the initial washer and bolt
- tighten them until the instrument support comes in contact with the upper tee

I didn't remove any material under the instrument support. In fact, when you tighten the bolt with the supplementary washers in place, the instrument support high parts certainly pushes down a little bit the rubber damping system and the instrument support get a tight contact with the tee.

It's done easily, without dismounting anything and it's easily reversible.

First test ride tomorrow, stay tuned !
 

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Hello


First ride with the mod, this morning, on a the bumpiest road to work : the mod is validated !!!

Yes, it removes the throttle jerking, but in fact, the best interest of this mod is the better control of the front wheel you get with.
Aside this, I didn't notice more vibrations, sight in the mirrors is still clear, that's a good indication.

So, I keep my 4 additionnal washers !
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Vincelp,

Thank you for the feedback on this modification. I was hoping that more members would have tried and posted their results here to help validate this mod for others who are still on the fence. The increase in control is significant and immediately apparent. It would take significant money and time to get this kind of result from upgrading suspension parts. You will be amazed with the results from such a simple mod.

Calling on other members who have done this mod. Please post your experience here so others can see the benefits and try it for themselves.
 

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Hello
The increase in control is significant and immediately apparent. It would take significant money and time to get this kind of result from upgrading suspension parts. You will be amazed with the results from such a simple mod. .
I wouldn't say that this mod avoids the suspension upgrade.

The fork behaviour is in OEM state really poor and, even with the handlebar mod, it will remain poor and the mod will not give the bike a good behaviour. It will just allow you to better feel that the fork is not acting well :D

For those who ride only on good roads or drive slowly , the handlebar mod is enough. For those who really want to ride on any roads and don't want to worry about the bike behaviour, a suspension upgrade is required. There are lots of possible mods, from cheap to expensive ones, detailed in some other threads.
 

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Hello

I've done the modification this evening, in an even simpler way :
- just loose the lower bolts, remove them with their washer
- put, on each side, two washers under the tee (dimension of each washer : external diameter=33 mm, internal diameter=19 mm, thickness=3 mm)
- mounted back the initial washer and bolt
- tighten them until the instrument support comes in contact with the upper tee

I didn't remove any material under the instrument support. In fact, when you tighten the bolt with the supplementary washers in place, the instrument support high parts certainly pushes down a little bit the rubber damping system and the instrument support get a tight contact with the tee.

It's done easily, without dismounting anything and it's easily reversible.

First test ride tomorrow, stay tuned !
I just removed my handlebar yesterday for powder coating. And I was about to do this mod.

Vincelp: do you've got any pic on where to insert the washers? Forgive my ignorance, the stem is the upper part of the triple tree clamp brace?

I'm trying to figure out if they go between the handlebar clamp (below of that) and the top triple tree, without sinking into the rubber isolated washer inside the bolt holes?
 

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Hello
Vincelp: do you've got any pic on where to insert the washers? Forgive my ignorance, the stem is the upper part of the triple tree clamp brace?
I have no pics, sorry for that.
But it's very easy : the 2 washers must be inserted between the lower face of the upper tee and the original washer and screw that holds the handlebar support in the tee.

Said in another way : to remove the handlebar and instrument support, you've unscrewed two screws under the tee, there go the 2 washers.

Up to down, you will find :
- the handlebar support crossed by two bolts
- the tee
- the 2 additionnal washers
- the original washer
- the original screw

Last way to explain it : on the fourth pics of the first post of this thread, you see exactly the place where to put the washers between the original washer+screw and lower face of the tee.
 

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Pics from manual (upside down)

So in fact you put washers around the silent blocks (18) right?

My trusted hardware store only had 34-19-4mm washers, but as per Picture 4 in the first post it seems there will be enough thread left.. If I do the install I will post pics
 

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May I know what is the proper tool size to un-do the nut?
15 seems to be a little loose, thus the question
thanks!
 

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May I know what is the proper tool size to un-do the nut? 15 seems to be a little loose, thus the question!
I would say 15, but maybe 14 or 16 :D
In fact, the best is... try !
You need to block in rotation the bolt, with an Allen tool, (I would say 8 mm) and if you haven't an Allen tool coming with a special head that allows to use it with an angle from the bolt, you'll have to remove the handlebar to reach the bolt head.
 

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15 mm for the nut is correct.
I bypassed the silence block with just one washer. 16mm inside, 30mm outside, 2,5mm thick. On the other side, top of the tee, underneath the handlebar support, I put an O-ring, 22mm diameter inside.
 

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What's the OD of the silence block?

Seems that 16mm-19mm are both fine
Going to local hardware shop tomorrow morning to source all the required items.. :)

thanks!
 

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My brother already took the cluster support to the mill, so in the end I didn't use the bypass washer. Anyway, the bike now feels even more light and I can toss it around with very less effort than before. It also feels more connected to the road providing more feedback. The only vibration, if minimal, I noticed, was on the rubber edges of the left handgrip (again, very minimal, if any). So far 50 km trips on the city this week with no hands fatigue at all.

Great mod for anyone wishing to improve steering and throttle response!! Thumbs up!
 
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