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So I'm riding to work yesterday and as I'm accelerating over some washboard asphalt I realize I'm getting jerked all over the place. Most might blame the suspension but the majority of this motion is the fault of another component and it's easy to fix. The Scramblers come with a rubber isolated stem designed to filter out engine and road vibration but unfortunately it just flexes back and forth. This motion makes throttle application difficult as you inevitably roll it on and off as you are being jerked around.

You start by removing your instrument cluster. Three allen head bolts removes the front cover plate exposing the connecting harness. There is a little button down the left side on the harness, pushing it in allows the locking lever to rotate around releasing it. Put your cluster in a safe place so you don't damage it. I also placed a thick blanket over the tank to help protect it as you will be laying the handlebars on top shortly. go ahead and remove the four stem bolts being careful that your handlebar doesn't spin down and ding anything, place it on you protected tank. You now have access to your stem mounting 8mm allen bolts. Use a 15mm wrench on the bottom nuts as you break the bolts free. keep the bottom two washers and nuts for reassembly.


Pulling the stem bolts out you will find two small washers under the stem, dispose of these (not needed). You will also notice how the underside of the stem's mounting points protrudes from the rest of the stem. These need ground and filed down to be nearly flush with the stems bottom so it can then lay flat on the top plate. After filing these down go ahead and place your stem on top of the plate checking that it rests completely flat against it. If so start reassembly running the long 8mm mounting bolts down through the stem and plate. I apologize for this next part as I didn't take a measurement of the two additional washers I added to the bottom side ahead of the original washer and nut. They need to be thick enough (approx.1/8") and the center opening large enough to slip over the rubber portion allowing full metal to metal contact bypassing the isolated center section. The washers are pictured after I hit them with some paint as I had to enlarge the center section.


Secure these larger washers with the original nuts and washers and tighten everything down making sure that the stem is centered as you tighten. Sorry But with decades of experience I go by feel so no torque specs given here. Reattach your handlebar making sure all control lines and wires are run properly and finish up with your instrument cluster. Once you power up you will notice your clock and trip meter have reset to zero so go ahead and set your clock. Your odometers total mileage will read correctly.


After I did this modification I took my Icon for a long back road blitz which had lots of twisty undulating roads. I was amazed how much more composed my bike felt, night and day difference. There is no detectable increase of engine or road vibration and a lot less monkey motion in the handlebars. Hitting washboard is way better now that the bar has a fixed position, none of the unwanted roll on throttle as before. Everything from acceleration to braking is now immensely improved, I don't feel like a rag doll anymore. I would love to hear feedback as members here try this for themselves.
 

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Great idea - good pickup - this sounds like a worthwhile mod to carry out.
I would like to just offer an alternative for those who want to try it without doing any mods like filing the protruding bosses down on the bottom of the clamp piece.
I had a look at the spare clamp piece I have (I have the FT bars fitted to my Icon) and you could make the clamp piece sit "solidly" onto the top triple tree by cutting out a piece of aluminium about 3mm thick that goes over the boss and effectively takes up the gap between the two surfaces and causes the clamp to sit against the top triple tree. Of course, you would need one on each side.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards - Ray.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes that is another way to do it and one I had considered but ultimately requires more fabrication, adds additional weight and will not look as nice. The modification I performed can also easily be reversed by adding an additional washer between the stem and top plate taking the height back to where it was originally. Trust me, you will never go back once you experience the difference in ride quality.
 

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I thought I was just really really strong and flexing the bars! This explains everything...good to know!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great idea - good pickup - this sounds like a worthwhile mod to carry out.
I would like to just offer an alternative for those who want to try it without doing any mods like filing the protruding bosses down on the bottom of the clamp piece.
I had a look at the spare clamp piece I have (I have the FT bars fitted to my Icon) and you could make the clamp piece sit "solidly" onto the top triple tree by cutting out a piece of aluminium about 3mm thick that goes over the boss and effectively takes up the gap between the two surfaces and causes the clamp to sit against the top triple tree. Of course, you would need one on each side.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards - Ray.
Ray, just wondering if you had a chance to try out your shim idea as an alternative to my modification? I have put a couple hundred miles with the new ridged mount stem/handlebar and everything is holding tight offering great feedback from the road which was originally lost through the factory rubber mounts.

I'm sorry I never thought to make a how to video on this simple mod. I'm amazed I took the time to take the pictures that I did during the short procedure. This is very easy to perform and will make any Scrambler better.
 

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Cycletime71 - I have not got around to it yet - sorry - but I will be trying it. I have just spent the last 2 days waiting for things to be done on my scrambler. Monday was first service day and today I waited 5 hours for my Andreani cartridges to be fitted. Might just step away from the bike for a week. I like the fact that you are the type that likes to try things. I will keep you posted.
Kind regards - Ray.
 

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I did cycletime71's mod for the solid handlebar mount, and I have to say it worked very well. I haven't done any 2 hour rides since, to speak to any long distance fatigue, but on a couple 20 mile jaunts I cant detect any real increase to the handlebar vibrations(although I know there must be..). But the difference in throttle control over chop is definitely significant. If you've seen my few posts you know I don't think scramblers are made of magic like some folks seem to. So, if it didn't work, I'd say so. It worked for me. ymmv
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did cycletime71's mod for the solid handlebar mount, and I have to say it worked very well. I haven't done any 2 hour rides since, to speak to any long distance fatigue, but on a couple 20 mile jaunts I cant detect any real increase to the handlebar vibrations(although I know there must be..). But the difference in throttle control over chop is definitely significant. If you've seen my few posts you know I don't think scramblers are made of magic like some folks seem to. So, if it didn't work, I'd say so. It worked for me. ymmv
I'm happy to see someone gave my modification a try and found an improvement over the stock setup. I have about 700 miles since this modification and can't imagine going back to the sling shot original. This is such a simple mod with significant improvements that every owner will feel and appreciate.
 

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Hello


Your mod seems really interesting, but I'm wondering if the instrument connections won't be destroyed by the vibrations no more filtered by the flex mount ? Or maybe, even after your mod, the instrument remains isolated from vibrations ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello


Your mod seems really interesting, but I'm wondering if the instrument connections won't be destroyed by the vibrations no more filtered by the flex mount ? Or maybe, even after your mod, the instrument remains isolated from vibrations ?
The instrument cluster is supported and isolated with rubber grommets separate from the ones that I bypassed so I don't see this being an issue. I will update if any display gremlins arise from a possible increase in vibration. I will say that I don't perceive any additional vibration in the grips and I feel less fatigued after a ride as I'm not being flung back and forth as before.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello


Thanks a lot for your answer. It may be worth a try, but I like mods that are reversible.
So, if I do it, I'll try to find a way to make it so.
Actually it would be easy to reverse this mod back to original performance by adding a washer to compensate for the material removed from the stem. It would function no differently, just don't forget to remove the lower add on washer as well to free up the lower assembly.
 

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Hello


Thanks a lot for your answer. It may be worth a try, but I like mods that are reversible.
So, if I do it, I'll try to find a way to make it so.
I had your same concerns about altering the bike. I generally avoid that as well. but like cycletime71 says, it would be as simple as adding washers to regain the function. so I just said, wtf and went for it. And since it is pretty much undetectable (except by the improvement in ride/throttle control over chop) and doesnt effect any other systems, it's not something I would ever bother to reverse. Say, if I were to sell the bike for example.
Also, the gauges have their own rubber isolators (same as on a million other bikes never equipped with rubber bushing mounted bars) so I am not concerned about that. just my two cents, since we seem to be otherwise like minded on permenant mods….
cheers!
 

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cycletime and ride2kill,


I'd like the bars on my Full Throttle to be just a bit higher; if I wanted to add risers, would you have an idea of the best way to go about it? Thought I'd ask since you've had the clamps apart and have seen how things are put together. Thanks for any suggestions.


Sarah
 

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Discussion Starter #19
cycletime and ride2kill,


I'd like the bars on my Full Throttle to be just a bit higher; if I wanted to add risers, would you have an idea of the best way to go about it? Thought I'd ask since you've had the clamps apart and have seen how things are put together. Thanks for any suggestions.


Sarah

Sarah


I don't see any reason why you couldn't add some nice machined aluminum spacers under the stem to get the height you are looking for. You just need to install longer bolts to accommodate the extra height. Just make sure they are of similar grade as you don't want them failing on you. I hadn't checked the instrument cluster wires length as I was going lower but I would think you could probably add 1/2" spacer without problems maybe more.
 

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Thank you, that's what I was thinking, too. I'll have a look this weekend. Thanks again.


Sarah
 
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