[Explodee]

I have had pretty bad luck with the screws on my Icon so far. I was trying to get the front fender off and got 3 out of the 4 screws off OK. But the 4th oneis like frozen in time. Couldn’t for the life of me get it to turn. So now it’s stripped to all ****. Took off my side badges to take off the panels to get them powder coated and stripped both of those as well. I’m looking to buy on of those screw extractors today to hopefully get them out. Does anyone know where I can get replacement screws for either of those areas?

 

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If tou are in the US I get them @ Lowes


Sent from yo!

 

[marxtringer]

Are they stripped or the hex rounded out?

If the hex is rounded out you could try vise grips on the head of the bolt, epoxy/jb weld a small nut to the head and use a wrench, drilling should be a last resort.
You could also try a punch on the head to hammer the hex back closed then try again with the Allen key. Always make sure the tool is in fully and use shock force to break it either with a hammer or the palm of your hand. Hanging off it with steady pressure can cause them to slip.

If you are rounding them out often you should consider getting some better Allen keys, don't use ball hex for initial breakaway, and make sure you're using metric sizes.

Pig tail easy outs are the easiest type to use, go for Irwin or a decent brand if you must go down that route

 

[MotoChief]

They use heavy duty thread lock on light duty screws. It is a recipe for disaster. I rounded out one hex head, had to drill it out and then use vise grips to get it the rest of the way out. I have heard that we need to heat the stubborn ones, though that is easier said than done on most screws.

 

[Ed K]

Interesting. Had a similar issue on a rear fender bolt, and thought I was the only one.

I noticed the rear fender was just a little loose, like the screw needed to be tightened.

But it would not tighten further. I tried swapping screws from other side, but still did not work. Appears the tap into the frame was either wrong or not all the way through.

Fortunately, I did not over tighten and its not stripped; I just added a washer to tighten it up, and that worked.

 

[greer]

Somebody suggested a soldering iron held against the bolt head to supply heat. Tiresome for sure, but better than stripping screws. A heat gun can be handy but you have to be super careful of plastics and paint.


Sarah

 

[JaFlo]

One trick I've had luck with when using Allen or torx sockets is to apply valve lapping compound to the bolt head before inserting the tool. The grit in the compound gives the tool extra grip on the bolt head, even on stripped or rounded bolt heads.

To heat the small bolts, get a butane powered "micro torch". The small, thin flame allows you to direct the heat to the bolt head without damaging the areas around it.

 

[Handlebar]

If thread locker is the culprit, I would try soldering iron first. If it is already badly stripped I would also use the vise grips in conjunction with the heat from the soldering iron. Instead of the vise grips sometimes a torques bit that seems just a little tight can be tapped into a rounded out hex, this has worked for me in the past. Be patient applying the heat and just hold the iron to the center of the rounded out bolt until your sure its hot. It should come right out. If you try the micro torch be very careful not to damage the surrounding surface. Good Luck.

 

[Asador]

I had problems getting one screw of the rear fender loose and asked my dealer to help. I thought it was completely rounded. The mechanic said there was an insert or some sort of cap in the screw head. When he took that out, the screw come undone without a problem. Might be worth having a closer look if you are having problems.

 

[Toasty]

Just reviving this hoping for a solution. My rear fender screw on Icon just turns, but doesn't unscrew. The head is fine, but it appears that the metal tap/cap that the screw goes into (that is embedded in the plastic) is actually turning itself.

It looks like the metal tap was wedged into the plastic incorrectly so it turns with the screw (which was probably cross threaded) but stays put.

Any ideas to remove it without breaking the whole thing? I've tried heating but doesn't help.

 

[Toasty]

Problem solved!

The screw had fused to the metal insert so I drilled it out which heated it up so much that the whole insert came out.

Managed to separate them using vice grips and what little of the head remained.

Judging by this exercise, working on this bike is sure to be fun!

 

[Vincelp]

It looks like the metal tap was wedged into the plastic incorrectly so it turns with the screw (which was probably cross threaded) but stays put.

I'm afraid you'll need to destroy something to get this screw off...
Except if you can dismount more largely something on the bike to get the fender and its support out. Then, maybe you can try to block the plastic insert if it is reachable under the screw head.

Can you send a photo of the crime scene ?

 

[Toasty]

So basically the brass insert pulled out when I forcefully separated the black liner from the fender.(after removing the unit from bike by removing blinkers).

I then drilled out the remaining glue and lined the support/hole with epoxy before squeezing the brass insert back in.

The reason unscrewing the screw broke the insert loose was the unnecessary amounts of red threadlocker on it.

 

[Vincelp]

OK, red thread locker needs to be heated quite a lot, around 200° C, to dismount the treated bolt.

 

[MotoChief]

The problem with heating them is that the insert glue/plastic like to give away at about the same temperature as the thread lock.

 

[rider]

Toasty, I had a similar problem with both rear fender screws, it looked like a red super thread lock had been used on them.

If you can get a set of multi grips in between the fender and the inner fender and grab the plastic mouldings that hold the nuts you might have a chance of cracking the screws.

A thin jawed set of multi grips would be preferable.

If you succeed, it's just a matter of using some epoxy to reset the nuts back in, and maybe using the same epoxy to re-enforce the plastic molding around the nuts.

If you can't hold those plastic moldings tight enough the nuts will keep on turning in them and nothing will happen until you loose it and cut them off,,,, not so good as you then have to epoxy them back onto the fender.

Good luck.

 

[vudiesel]

Bumping this to get some advice!! I am removing the rear fender and was able to get two out of the three screws out using the provided L hex tool. The 3rd one right behind the chain is giving me ****!! I am going to run to the store after work today to get a hex driver socket to attempt to get it out with a ratchet. Does anybody have suggestions on how you guys got it out?

Thank you!

 

[vudiesel]

The hex socket did the trick..........

 

[migenterpries]

MIGEnterpries provide set screws Supplier to customers with quality tools which are manufactured to the highest standards. These screws are welded together which provides them with a superior strength.