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Secondary Air System Removal

36367 Views 60 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  gebadop4
Ok as requested here is my attempt at a how to of removing the Secondary Air System on the scrambler.

You want to do this if you have a free flowing exhaust and are experiencing popping and banging from the exhaust under deceleration.

The SAS injects air from the intake filter housing and directly feeds it into the exhaust part of the cylinder head. Due to the high temps and leftover unburnt fuel ignition occurs! According to Ducati this is to smooth out the engine at low rpm and prevent the cat from becoming clogged up.

After the mod the popping was vastly improved and I experienced no rough running or negative conditions in the engine, high or low rpm! Yours may be different but I would say give it a try and if it doesn't work for you then simply reverse the mod.

Time scale 10 - 30 mins depending on skill level
Tools needed 2 x cable ties and smallest Allen key in the supplied toolkit
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If you just unplug the electrical connection at the valve and bridge it with 47ohm .5watt resistor (tolerance doesn't matter), then you can leave everything else intact. Much easier and also easier to put back to stock.
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You've posted the same thing in 3 places now, so I have to chase you around. :)

That makes sense if it's a valve, but TransNone13 says it's a sensor and it's vacuum operated. Which is it?
It's a valve. If you unplug it, it won't operate (obviously). The resistor is just there so it doesn't throw an error code.
Did you use a resistor on yours?
Waiting for it to arrive from the vendor. These things cost pennies, and are widely available.
Wait for my post, as you don't have to either remove the plug or cut the wires. It's really easy to fashion the "resistor-bridge" out of some bits of wire, a couple of spade connectors and some shrink-wrap tubing. The you just plug it into the existing socket and you're all done. Neat, easy and totally reversible.

Will post the complete "how-to" with pics sometime this weekend.
I tried a resistor 23ohm however it got hot and partially melted the plug! I just plugged the valve back in in the end. If anyone else is successful with the resistor I'd like to know so that I can eliminate the valve completely. It's fit isn't great on the bracket as it seems to push on a sensor or something behind it.
23ohm is too close to the actual operating parameters of the system.
PS Tony, would this trick transfer to the Panigale? I want to remove that as well. I assume if this fails somehow, I will see a check engine light? I hope so, then I can troubleshoot it...
Yes, should also work with Panigale. If something fails (resistor, wiring, etc) it will throw error code.
Would higher than 47Ω work okay?
It should.
Right, but does that trigger a check engine light? I don't have a DDS... Sorry if I misunderstood your answer. And thank you for the info on the Panigale!
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Just discovered that if you disable the O2 sensors (via Rexxer or some other means) you a can leave the SAI completely intact. The solenoid valve will not operate without feedback from the lambdas, and remains closed.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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