Ducati Scrambler Forum banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok as requested here is my attempt at a how to of removing the Secondary Air System on the scrambler.

You want to do this if you have a free flowing exhaust and are experiencing popping and banging from the exhaust under deceleration.

The SAS injects air from the intake filter housing and directly feeds it into the exhaust part of the cylinder head. Due to the high temps and leftover unburnt fuel ignition occurs! According to Ducati this is to smooth out the engine at low rpm and prevent the cat from becoming clogged up.

After the mod the popping was vastly improved and I experienced no rough running or negative conditions in the engine, high or low rpm! Yours may be different but I would say give it a try and if it doesn't work for you then simply reverse the mod.

Time scale 10 - 30 mins depending on skill level
Tools needed 2 x cable ties and smallest Allen key in the supplied toolkit
 

· Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Be sure to leave the valve plugged in so as not to throw up an error code in the ecu.

Hope this helps some people out!
Could you kind enough to describe more details with more pictures. As a newbie, I can not imagine.

Another question: shoud I do it if my icon still run normally?

Thank you very much in advance
 

· Registered
Joined
·
129 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could you kind enough to describe more details with more pictures. As a newbie, I can not imagine.

Another question: shoud I do it if my icon still run normally?

Thank you very much in advance
If you have the stock exhaust or an exhaust with a CAT inside then I wouldn't do it. Because of the Ducati statement that its used to prevent unburnt fuel from clogging up the CAT

I'm not sure I can provide any more details, it's really simple just take your time. Pull the pipes/hoses off and try to seal them up as best you can
 

· Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
If you have the stock exhaust or an exhaust with a CAT inside then I wouldn't do it. Because of the Ducati statement that its used to prevent unburnt fuel from clogging up the CAT

I'm not sure I can provide any more details, it's really simple just take your time. Pull the pipes/hoses off and try to seal them up as best you can
Thank you. I will try ;)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
This is an excellent free (or $2) mod! I spent $2 on the rubber stopper plugs.

Like many others, I get occasional popping/backfiring through my airbox. This normally happens to me on heavy acceleration followed by closing the throttle, blipping the throttle with the clutch in, slowing down for a really low speed turn and then giving it a tiny bit of gas, as well as other situations. Disconnecting the SAS eliminates this! Or at least I couldn't get it to do it in a 15 minute test ride.

I did everything I could to get it to backfire through the airbox. I've got 6k miles on my bike, so I know how to get it to pop. Normally, it's pretty easy to get it to do it by doing combinations of the things I listed above. With the SAS disconnected, I can get it to pop/backfire a little bit, but it only comes out the exhaust and NOT the airbox anymore. This makes sense considering the SAS is designed to open a valve and inject air to burn any unspent fuel. Now the unspent fuel goes out the exhaust.

I wouldn't do this if you have an exhaust with a cat for the reasons mentioned, but if you have an after market exhaust with no cat, I'd absolutely do this mod.

Just do what was explained above. I unscrewed the valve first to make it easy to get the hoses off. I plugged my hosts with little rubber stoppers. The inside of the tubes (there are 3 to plug) is about 1/2" diameter. I did not cap off the 3 openings on the valve yet. I'm not sure if you really have to. Here you can see the plug, along with two of the tubes plugged. When done, leave the valve plugged in and just put it back where it was.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
If you just unplug the electrical connection at the valve and bridge it with 47ohm .5watt resistor (tolerance doesn't matter), then you can leave everything else intact. Much easier and also easier to put back to stock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Luce

· Registered
Joined
·
412 Posts
If you just unplug the electrical connection at the valve and bridge it with 47ohm .5watt resistor (tolerance doesn't matter), then you can leave everything else intact. Much easier and also easier to put back to stock.
You've posted the same thing in 3 places now, so I have to chase you around. :)

That makes sense if it's a valve, but TransNone13 says it's a sensor and it's vacuum operated. Which is it?

In the service manual it's exclusively referred to as a sensor.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
You've posted the same thing in 3 places now, so I have to chase you around. :)

That makes sense if it's a valve, but TransNone13 says it's a sensor and it's vacuum operated. Which is it?

In the service manual it's exclusively referred to as a sensor.
No, I was referencing the reed valves. I'm saying cap it or remove it to keep it clean. I might do his resistor trick.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
599 Posts
You've posted the same thing in 3 places now, so I have to chase you around. :)

That makes sense if it's a valve, but TransNone13 says it's a sensor and it's vacuum operated. Which is it?
It's a valve. If you unplug it, it won't operate (obviously). The resistor is just there so it doesn't throw an error code.
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top