[brommer]

In the manaul it doens't say how big the static and rider sag is.

At deleveri it is the middel position, but what is the correct postion.
There is no mm for static and rider sag? In the manaul.

But let try is different, how heavy are you en in what position do have set it?

I am in ridng gear about 85-90 kilo

 

[Let The Good Times Roll]

Sag to get you started

This is a non technical answer that will get you started and in the ball park.
Total sag (the weight of you and the bike) should be around 25% to 33% of the total suspension travel.
Hope this helps a bit - Ray.

 

[JWA]

I'm at about the same weight with gear and went to the highest setting. Felt good on one test ride.

 

[Hedonism]

25% looks too much to me... Balancing sag with or without rider need to hang the bike and at least a couple of mates to hold it while you are on and to measure sunspension work.... A littke complicated

 

[Jerry Winder]

25% looks too much to me... Balancing sag with or without rider need to hang the bike and at least a couple of mates to hold it while you are on and to measure sunspension work.... A littke complicated

So true, many a good bike's been ruined by numpties messing about with adjustable suspension! I'm not entirely innocent myself, after putting an Ohlins shock on a Hornet I never had it right and in the end I took it to a specialist :crying:


Jerry

 

[brommer]

does anyone knows what spring rate the rear spring is?
In my enduro life, de springs from the factory where mostly for people of 70 kilo's, so i always put an heavier spring in it.
static sag had to be between 2-3 cm and dynamic about 10 cm, if the dynamic is oke, but the static is not then en a heavier / lighter spring is needed.
suspension and types makes the difference.
for street riding i'm not an expert.
in the manuel is says nothing only that with passengers you need to turn it fully up.
it's to bad there is no info in the manual, its easy to measure.
my enduro bike had 30 cm travel, de scrambler 15 cm. but its a different game offroad or onroad?
so i hope for some info from here

 

[littleowl]

I'm 59kgs and have the preload set to softest setting. But I have now ordered a replacement shock ....

 

[Hedonism]

Static sag depends by weight and use of the bike. For roads use on light bike as our scrambler, static should range in mm 20/25 front an 10/15 rear, I would add 50% for unpaved roads use.

However don't forget tgat on a 180 kgs bike, we have abt +/- 10 kgs gas so our sag cannot be always correct. Furthermore, without any hydraulic register, any action on soring preload will cause fast compression (endings) or fast rebound.

If we look at dtls as sag, we than need a wide range of option that standard equipment on open roads (various weather and road conditions) can't grant

 

[brommer]

went to hyperpro suspension, rear shock is a bit to soft for my weight, preload is good in the middle postion, if i tension it , then there is no static sag with is not desirable. the front is not bad for deep en slow suspension, but with hard en short it could be beter, that means A: break in, B other seals that do not stick in the first part of suspension, c progressive suspension from hyperpro (had it on all my bike).

After 700 km riding last 2 days the suspension is beter!, i wil ride it till 2000km en then see what to do. When te road is nice paved its good, with bumps i get thrown out of the saddle, with old fashion roads (small stone's paved) my tooth shake....

but stil very happy with the bike.

 

[alepplew]

Preload rear suspension...
In the manaul it doens't say how big the static and rider sag is.

In contrast to popular believe you do not adjust the preload, unless you have zero static sag with rider. Instead you are adjusting the height of the rear. The preload is determined by the combined weight of the rider and bike on the rear, unless you have reached so much spring tension that there is no sag left and the shock is extended to the stop.

This is the reason why this adjustment is way less important than people think it is and why attempts to get it "softer" this way are fruitless. It affects the steering angle and the seat height more than anything else.

Just my 5 cents...

 

[Hedonism]

the correct way is to register compression an rebound, but since we can't, the only way to reduce hits by the rear due to the bumpy roads, is to reduce preload, because will have more spring travel and rebound will be slower. as you know, when preload is high (luggage or pax) rebound must be slow down to avoid quick mono extrnsion due to spring avtion


Inviato da mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk

 

[brommer]

the preload is for the geometric of the bike, that has to be good for the ideal steering. thats why if you ride with a passenger you tension up the preload so that you don't sit on a "chopper" .
The rear spring has a weight range let s say 75 kilo.
If a person of 85 kilo sits on it it wil compress the suspension more there for the geometric is change an with the preload you can correct it (with in limits)
If a person of 50 kilo sits on it, it walnut compress that much and the bike wil be more on it's head/front. But also will not use its compleet travel with average use.
There for the right spring/weight is usefull.
if you're static sag is not in range with you're dynamic sag its time for a different spring. Good riding starts with good geometric. Indeed you cannot change the harsnish of the suspension.
with the kim's its easy, it says in the manual 70 k you need spring a, 80 kilo spring b, 100 kilo spring d.
With the right spring then you can fiddle around with the preload for you're personal setting , after that comes the rebound and compression

 

[Hedonism]

ok, but we are not on track, and we have not sunspension tech. at home.... we are handling a bike for road use, and even the simple fuel tank (empty or full) will range abt 10 kgs.... (from 10 to 20% of rider's weight).

we have a "problem": every, even small, bump will let us seat on front fender.... to clear this matter is most important to have the right "sag" or bike setup (as wished by enginers) the only action we can do, before replace the spring or the entire mono, is to reduce the preload, it will change a while the geometric, but we are forced to choice what is less traumatic....

I've already fitted Andreani/ohlins front cartridge and I'm in waiting list for the Ohlins mono, in the meantime don't want to have "rodeo session" while riding

 

[Slaine]

I think everybody is reading too much into the suspension, I weigh 90kg and fully dressed probably somewhere in the region of 100kg.
I have not touched anything on the suspension (all standard) and can throw the bike around without any problem, bumps are no big deal and the bike sticks like glue to the road.
I would say its firm but not uncomfortable and nothing on the bike is sagging apart from my eyelids.

 

[Phil McAvity]

I am the same weight as Slaine. I just completed another 800+ km trip. This time with my 45 kg wife on the back plus a little bit of luggage and the ride was noticibly smoother without changing anything. So, as a solo rider, I should decrease the pre-load for the same ride right? And by that I mean lower the compression on the spring?

 

[Meancatdaddy]

Hmmm I agree that people are reading too much into the suspension, one is the fact it doesn't have any adjustment (compression- rebound) and the fact it's a road going bike. I do motocross as my main riding and suspension is purely a personal preference. I know you have to set the right sag on a motocross bike and change spring rates accordingly as I have done. In motocross it's not something that once set it stays, like say a road going bike because every track is different and that's where adjusting suspension plays its part and is personal preference.

I think unless you are going to take your scrambler to the track and do a different form of riding then yes new suspension all round is the way to go.

With the limited adjustment we have with the scrambler it's just a case of what is more comfortable for the individual as roads don't necessarily change other than a little bit rougher in some places.

As someone posted before if you want to get your mates round and fully load the bike with all your gear for a normal ride get it on a stand and measure the unloaded vs loaded to see if your spring rates are wrong for your weight then do it but you need to have a target to work to and even then other suspension specialist have different views on the correct ball park.

Hope this helps.

 

[mitra]

I am the same weight as Slaine. I just completed another 800+ km trip. This time with my 45 kg wife on the back plus a little bit of luggage and the ride was noticibly smoother without changing anything. So, as a solo rider, I should decrease the pre-load for the same ride right? And by that I mean lower the compression on the spring?

45 kilo wife... i hope she is a real shorty, or you need to check her birth certificate ... or alternative becomer a better chef, cause she sure doesn't seem to be having any of it >

No seriously, I used to think the bike rear suspension was a bit off and I'm 71-72 kilos without gear. So I made it a bit stiffer, but then it was too hard.. however, after doing 3400 miles now, the bike just feels perfect in almost every way. rear suspension feels just right, front one is also great. (and engine has opened up a lot and is just spot on)

 

[Phil McAvity]

45 kilo wife... i hope she is a real shorty, or you need to check her birth certificate ... or alternative becomer a better chef, cause she sure doesn't seem to be having any of it

She's short, Asian and very beautiful. Also highly dangerous. Ok, maybe 46 kg but I'm not going any higher than that.

 

[Meancatdaddy]

She's short, Asian and very beautiful. Also highly dangerous. Ok, maybe 46 kg but I'm not going any higher than that.

+1 Phil, you might want to put dangerous in capital letters tho!!

 

[Hedonism]