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Some of us have downloaded the Scrambler Service Manual. I just want to draw Scrambler owners attention to a mistake that will end up causing them tears. This mistake seems to be ongoing as it also appeared in the manual for my Monster 1100. Most owners of Monsters already know about this. Somewhere in the Monster range Ducati changed the size of the oil drain plug from 22mm ( from memory) to 12mm (from memory) but the manuals haven't changed the fastening torque specification.
I just had a look at my Scrambler and it appears to have the 12mm plug.
Page 104 of the downloaded Service manual shows the drain plug having a torque of 42 Nm. This is incorrect and should be 20 Nm.
The 20 Nm has been arrived at from discussion on the web (Ducati forums) and reference to Torque Tables.
Any qualified people on this forum might want to comment on this.
If you use the higher fiqure you will strip the thread or pop the head off the drain plug (its a thin head or flange) (ask me how I know this).
If you google this you will find there is lots of info on the web about this problem.
Note - I am not referring to the "oil intake mesh filter".
Note - 22mm and 12mm refers to the diameter of the thread.
Hope this helps someone - Regards Ray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Silverlux

Yes - some of the people on this forum will recognise that its too much - those with mechanical experience for example and yourself. But its a real trap for those who trust the written word in the workshop manual.
Personally, I don't use a torque wrench for my drain plugs (on any of my vehicles) - I am more comfortable with "feeling" the drain plug tightening.
Those with experience know what I mean by that.
Let The Good Times Roll - Ray.
 

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I have only used a torque value for the oil drain plug exactly one time on my Jeep when I was in high school, and I broke the welded nut on the inside of the oil pan as a result. Let's just I learned a lot from that mistake and have never used torque values again from that day forward. I always go by feel since the risk is too great to screw it up.
 

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I have pulled too many head bolts right out of aluminum in the past to use torque spec on a lot of motorcycle engine rebuilds. So I just use 'known safe amounts of torque' on just about everything that's smaller in size. I always try to look up proper torque spec but if I'm dealing with 6mm studs and they want 30 foot pounds, I get pretty cautious.

People who aren't familiar with torque spec probably should stay away from any bolt smaller than 10mm :) Or don't. We all had to learn somehow. I'm just glad I learned over the years on cheap old cars and motorcycles.

Meanwhile, axle nuts and other big stuff always gets put down by the book because I trust the engineers. The worst that happens if you don't torque down your heads or engine side covers is that you leak oil. Way better than dealing with broken fasteners or worse yet, broken hunks of aluminum that used to be attached to your engine :)
 

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Some of us have downloaded the Scrambler Service Manual

- Regards Ray.

While I am jonesing for my Classic (ordered in January late) to appear here in Mexico, I guess I could get the manual and start reading. I note that it says DRAFT, does it look like it describes your bike well? (other than the error)
 

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While I am jonesing for my Classic (ordered in January late) to appear here in Mexico, I guess I could get the manual and start reading. I note that it says DRAFT, does it look like it describes your bike well? (other than the error)
I think the only thing I've seen missing is the wiring diagram, which is available online elsewhere. Otherwise it's really complete. It has specific instructions on how to remove body parts specific to the icon, urban enduro, classic, and full throttle. Lots of illustrations, diagrams, etc...

I have no idea how those people got a hold of it since dealerships don't seem to have access to anything similar. But yeah, it's 832 pages long and has info about every model including tearing the engine apart to single pieces :)
 

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At the end of the day, it has to make sense and feel right...

When I worked on airplanes in the navy, I was surprised at how LOW everything was torqued. It seemed just a bit tighter than 'snug'.
Everything was cotter pinned and safety wired, but still - it illustrated how little force is required to keep something tight.

Another thing that should be mentioned is temperature....
Going into hot aluminum is much more dangerous than going into cool aluminum.

D
 

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Well Ive just had a friend come round to my house with his motocross bike saying he couldn't get his rear axel nut off and that he'd chewed the axel block up which has a slot for the head of the bolt. Well I thought that must of had some force on that to chew it up even if its only aluminium.

Well as soon as I seen it I said to him "you haven't cross threaded the nut have you"? Well we are a proud breed and obviously he said "no".

So it took the 2 of us to swing off this nut, and I knew he'd cross threaded it, totally striping the thread of the axel and nut.

Anyway he wont be riding anytime soon as he managed to cross thread the biggest nut and bolt on the bike and torque it up at the same time which I thought was an achievement really.

"How did that happen" he said LOL
 

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So let's just say that I changed my oil and put a little too much in.... decided to drain a little bit to get things just right, and upon re-snugging my 'secondary' oil drain plug it never really felt 'snug'... I stopped immediately and am now slightly panicking. Any advice on what to do now?!
 

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I'd probably try to find someone you trust with mechanical skill to give you their opinion by loosening it (not enough that oil drains out) and re-fitting it themselves to see what they think. If you loosen it and look at the threads you should be able to see if you were pulling aluminum out of the engine case onto the bolt threads.

Otherwise I'd start the bike and if it's not leaking, ride it and keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't start leaking when hot. If it is leaking and you're worried it's stripped out, you'll have to drain the oil into a clean oil pan and save it. I'd probably clean the underside of the bike really well so you don't get any sand or dirt in the oil pan.

What kind of wrenches are you using? I think it'd be hard to strip out the plug (but I haven't even removed the secondary plug by the kick stand yet) using T handle or L shaped allen wrenches. It could be easy to strip out using sockets and a ratchet though (but even then the hex head might strip out first.)
 

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Ah man- that's exactly the route I'm going with. I started it up and ran for a minute to see if there was any sign of a leak, and it looks okay... I used a socket and ratchet, but literally did not even tighten the thing down. It pretty much just started to feel snug, and then didn't snug up.

I guess worst case scenario if I find any leaking is to permanently seal up that plug.... which would not be fun or awesome.... I would have assumed that the plug would be made to strip before the engine casing itself, but if the engine casing is stripped, I may just go wander into the desert naked and leave a note for my wife telling her I love her.
 

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It's not the end of the world. Everything is fixable :) It's not a hard fix to run new threads into that plug hole and put a new (next bigger size up) plug in there. I'm not sure how much 'meat' there is on the case for the secondary plug. The main plug, which I just had out last night, seems like the case is stout enough to handle at least 15 foot pounds of torque, not that I'd want to go that high. I just put mine back on by feel using a T handled allen wrench.

The easy fix if it's stripped (since you don't have to drain oil from that hole anyway) is a properly sized rubber compression plug. They sell tiny ones that'd fit in there.

 
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