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How to dismount left leg spring in the front fork ?

14740 Views 18 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Chris Williams
Hello

I've bought Wilber springs to replace the OEM springs with progressive springs.
It's been quite easy to replace the spring in the right leg of the fork, as the fork is built as any other Ducati fork.

But, the left leg is built completely differently : it contains just a spring and no preload tube upon it.

I just can't understand how to dismount it, to replace the spring. I am quite sure I need a specific tool, but I find no information about it in the workshop manual.

Does anyone here know how to proceed ?

Here are two photos to show my "problem" :

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Hello


After many discussions here and some other forums, I know that :
- the fork is made by Kayaba (but I didn't find a part-list or repair manual related to)
- this 4 holes cap is threaded and screwed in the tube
- the tube needs to be heated to unscrew the cap
- the can be unscrewed with a tool who would look like this :



Next step for me : I will give this fork leg to the local Yamaha dealer, who knows Kayaba fork and is ready to change for me the spring.


Thanks a lot to those who answered my different posts about this subject.
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Hello Vince,
this is my first post here, excuse my English.
I have the the same problem with the spring.
next week I have a meeting at the Wibers company, they will change the springs for me. They have this spezial Tool.
Also they have another method for filling with oil.
With compressed legs you have to fill 140 mm before the top end of the leg, without the Spring inside. Not easy to say, Air Chamber Volume.

Regards

Rudi
Hello
Hello Vince,
this is my first post here, excuse my English.
I have the the same problem with the spring.
next week I have a meeting at the Wibers company, they will change the springs for me. They have this spezial Tool.
If you can make photo of it, it would be cool. I'm currently waiting for mine, I should received it wednesday.
And also explain us exactly how they will perform the operation : need to heat or not the inner tube...

Also they have another method for filling with oil.
With compressed legs you have to fill 140 mm before the top end of the leg, without the Spring inside. Not easy to say, Air Chamber Volume.i
I thought the air chamber had to be measured with the leg in extended position, on the contrary. Please tell us when you'll have seen the process in Wilbers factory.
I hope they will show me how they do this, and thy will allow me to make pictures.

Next time I will try to load up pictures here.

Rudi
Hi Rudi45

Your post gives me a sort of answer to a mail they didn't answer : I've asked them whether they had dismounted the left leg before designing the spring. I'm not so sure they did it, now...

Can you please ask them ?
Hi Vince,

this is from WP, it shows how they do it with the Air Chamber. It´s in German.

Rudi.

You have PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=V2QxXOJHKHA#t=696
Hello
Hi Vince,
this is from WP, it shows how they do it with the Air Chamber. It´s in German.
OK, this confirms what I've read elsewhere : using a 140 mm long tube, you must remove oil until oil comes in when you aspirate with a bottle or a syringe.
Hi Vince,

yesterday I was at Wilbers Company.

To make fotos, was impossible. But I could see the man working.

I only talk about the left. He had a tool. looked nearly like this on your Pic. but on Top he could use a Ratchet.

I think they have done the tool by themself.

He needed a little bit force, to unscrew this part.

What will I say. In the left leg is only the spring, and oil. Nothing else! In the right is the Cartridge.

This spezial Screw is only to hold the spring down, and this metal rod only to hold the cap.

He filled oil until until 140 mm air chamber. both legs the same. Compressed without Spring.

The procedure needed half an hour for both legs. and was really cheap.

So, and now I will test the result. Yesterday it was raining.

Rudi

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Hello
Hi Vince,
yesterday I was at Wilbers Company.
To make fotos, was impossible. But I could see the man working.
Thanks a lot, Rudi.
I've received yesterday the tool, I will try tomorrow to dismount the left leg cap.


You said it needed a little bit force to unscrew the cap : did he had to heat the tube before trying to unscrew the cap ?
No Vince,
he didn´t heated. First he was looking for the right tool. it must really fit.

So, i´m back from my first test. I used the roads, were I know the Asphalt. It is much better, softer. Together with the Wilbers 630 rear.

I think it´s a really good result for this money.

Good luck tomorrow. Happy screwing.

Rudi

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'lut

Here is the end of the operation, replacing the spring in the left leg, now that I have received the right tool to unscrew the inner cap.

Here is the upper cap, with a specific nut under it. We hold the upper cap with a 17 mm tool and need another tool to hold the lower nut


When the upper is unscrewed and the specific nut is removed, we can then use the specific tool, which goes into the holes in the inner cap


We build a 140 mm long hose, to pump up the oil in the inner tube. This will create a 140 mm air chamber, when it is only 120 mm high originally. This will give a softer fork during compression phase.


The hose and the syringe are in place. We pump up the oil until it doesn't come up anymore. The spring must be out of the inner tube.


We put the Wilbers in place, with the narrow part upside


We put back the preload system upon the spring, under the inner cap


We put back the inner cap in the inner cap, pushing on the spring


We screw the inner cap with the specific tool


We put back the small shock washer on the preload tube


We put back the specific nut on the preload tube, screwing it as much as possible, but without blocking it


Then, we screw tightly the upper cap on the preload tube


We screw back the specific nut against the upper cap


We put back the outer tube against the upper cap and screw the upper cap. We'll finish to screw it when the fork leg will be mounted back in the tees


Here are the required tools


Then, to put back the fork legs, the wheel, brakes and mudguard :
- put each fork leg in the tees,
- screw only the lower tees, just enough to block the legs
- screw the upper caps definitively on the fork leg (torque = 5 Nm)
- screw the upper tees screws (torque = 18 Nm)
- put back the ABS captor in the right leg foot, tightening also its cable
- put back the wheel, introducing the axle on the right side, don't forget the small tube on the left side
- screw, by hand, the axle nut
- screw the 4 screws in the fork legs foot (torque = 10 Nm)
- screw the axle nut (torque =63 Nm)
- put back the brake calliper on the fork leg and screw it (torque = 45 Nm)
- screw the lower tees screws (torque = 18 Nm)
- put back the mudguard on the fork legs and screw the 4 screws which hold it on the fork legs
- tighten the brake lever to apply back the brake pads on the disk

Here it is !!!
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Hello

Here are the results of my first test ride, with the progressive Wilbers springs in the fork.

On slow speed shocks, the fork is much more soft, removing all bad sensations in the handlebar. On high speed shocks, I couldn't feel the fork dribbling anymore.

It is certainly not so efficient that a fork with a replacement cartride (Andreani or Maxton), but there's a real improvment, for a smaller amount of money...

It's a pity that the fork left leg is so difficult to dismount, this will avoid lots of people to do this by themselves.
- screw the 4 screws in the fork legs foot (torque = 10 Nm)

Hi Vince,
The guy at Wilbers company said. tighten all screws, but not the right.
press down the Bike a few times. then tighten the right side.

Then everything is in position.

Rudi
The guy at Wilbers company said. tighten all screws, but not the right. press down the Bike a few times. then tighten the right side.
Then everything is in position.i
Maybe his procedure is better than mine, but the right procedure requires a specific Ducati tools to hold the axle in the right leg.

You put this tool in the axle, then you tighten the axle nut and, only after that, you tighten the 4 screws in both fork legs feet.

On my previous Ducati, the axle had two holes on the right side, so you could align these holes with the foot bottom hole and put a screwdriver in those holes to lock the axle in rotation. The scrambler axle hasn't got these holes, so, without the Ducati tools, we need to find a solution. I'll verify if everything is in place on my bike, if not, I'll apply the Wilbers guy procedure.
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Great aeticle guys. Thanks for the pics and advice
Hello


After many discussions here and some other forums, I know that :
- the fork is made by Kayaba (but I didn't find a part-list or repair manual related to)
- this 4 holes cap is threaded and screwed in the tube
- the tube needs to be heated to unscrew the cap
- the can be unscrewed with a tool who would look like this :



Next step for me : I will give this fork leg to the local Yamaha dealer, who knows Kayaba fork and is ready to change for me the spring.


Thanks a lot to those who answered my different posts about this subject.
Where do you get this tool and how much is it? Is it more practical to just take the left fork to a Yamaha dealer and what should that cost?
Hello
Where do you get this tool and how much is it? Is it more practical to just take the left fork to a Yamaha dealer and what should that cost?
I just can't remember where I bought but it was quite widely spread on different Internet web sites selling tools. But, in fact, it hasn't got the right dimensions so I had to modify.


You'd better build using a tube in which you'll cut the sprongs or bring your fork to a dealer knowing Kayaba forks (I can't tell you how much he would charge you for this).
Can you change the springs with the forks still on the bike by removing the handle bars etc???
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