[cycletime71]

Not sure if this has been done and posted here so I thought I'd share. The front brake and throttle cable were intentionally left to float over the instrument cluster as the did on the original 62' version. From the time I laid eyes on them I thought it looked a mess. I now run my cables behind the stem by rotating the throttle 180 degrees and removing the brake lever and looping that around as well. This works really well with the tall steel handlebars as the banjo, once rotated now runs in line with the handlebar. You can see how the grip is now rotated in relation to the left side. I choose not to try and rotate the grip over the throttle tube as to not damage it. You will also need to either drill a hole to secure the throttle clamp or detab it and run some electrical tape to prevent rotation. The upside down grip actually works very well as my finger tips grip the underside ridge giving me great grip on the throttle.

 

[MotoChief]

That is an interesting way to clean up the viewing area but I think that the cables would drive me crazy in front of the handle bars like that. It also looks like there is going to be way more stress on them like that. Please update us about wear and such after a few hundred miles like that.

 

[cycletime71]

There is no wear because as you rotate the handlebar the cables move in unison with the front end. There is no chafing or binding. The throttle cable sweeps around in a nice smooth arch which doesn't add to anymore drag on the inner cable. I didn't need to tuck or pull any of the lines to make this work on my Icon. I have had to rotate my bars and prove to some how there is zero interference and then they get it. The only other thing I did was to crimp the steel cable guide to the left of the ignition closed with some needle nose pliers. I did this so they stay closer together cleaning up the look.

 

[tonyjuliano]

Not sure if this has been done and posted here so I thought I'd share. The front brake and throttle cable were intentionally left to float over the instrument cluster as the did on the original 62' version. .

I think it actually looks good - one of the endearing qualities for me.


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[Asiaoildude]

While I admire OP's effort I can't see myself doing it either. It's just part of the charm.

 

[Don_D]

I like it. I too like the cable look on mine however so I doubt I will change it but it certainly does clean it up a bit. Might be a project for down the road a spell. Thanks for the pics, Ive been wondering about it.

 

[Slaine]

Having fitted a Dart Screen, the cables are hidden from view as they blend in with the screen, even without the screen they didn´t bother me and certainly did not block my view of the Speedo.

The Throttle cable on the mod just doesnt look right to me but thats probably just me.

 

[cycletime71]

A couple more pictures showing the brake line banjo rotated, following the angle of the handlebars and the smooth kink free throttle cable entering to the left of the ignition.

 

[Slaine]

Could get in the way of a tankrucksack.

 

[Tyres84]

I like what you've done. Trying to tidy the cables up on my bike after having fitted lower bars. I be actually just crated a thread asking for advice and then I read this.

When you rotated the brake line banjo did you just undo that little nut on the end? Was there no leaking of brake fluid? And also, do you happen to know the torque setting for doing it back up is?

 

[marxtringer]

I like what you've done. Trying to tidy the cables up on my bike after having fitted lower bars. I be actually just crated a thread asking for advice and then I read this.

When you rotated the brake line banjo did you just undo that little nut on the end? Was there no leaking of brake fluid? And also, do you happen to know the torque setting for doing it back up is?

I done a similar thing when I rotated my bars. You only have to crack the bolt enough to spin the cable, it should be stiff to turn with probably some fluid dampnes only! (If you undo it so that fluid is dripping out your gonna get air in the system) Just snug it back up by feel afterwards. The torque settings will be irrelevant because you will not be using new crush washers.

If you're having to be guided through a task like this and your not 100% confident maybe you should re-consider playing with the hydraulics on brakes, just have a mechanic do it for you. Good luck anyhow

 

[cycletime71]

I'm not sure of the recommended torque spec of the bolt. What I did was take a closed end 12mm wrench and loosen the bolt just enough to rotate the banjo with some force. It was probably no more than one eighth of a turn. I didn't want to leak brake fluid everywhere and have to go about rebleeding the system. After rotating the banjo to the desired position retighten the bolt just past where you originally started to ensure a leak proof connection without over torqueing the bolt. Keep in mind that when you do retighten the bolt the banjo will want to rotate with it so you need to hold it in place while doing so.

 

[Tyres84]

Thanks, gave it a go with no leakage. Problem solved