Engine Oil Recommendation

61912 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Rovshan Babashov, May 3, 2017

outofthebox

Discussion Starter · Jun 16, 2015

I would like to know what formulation has everyone been feeding their babies.

Pre first service, after first service, and thereafter.

Officially recommended oil as per owner manual is SHELL - Advance 4T Ultra.

Ducati.ms forum has members recommending full synthetic Motul 300V factory line for M796 (closest relative of Scrambler). There are some other Mobil recommendations too - Mobil One, 7100, etc.

The more I read about it, the more confused I get. first question I have is - Semi-Synthetic or Full Synthetic for Scrambler 803? Assuming typical urban usage with occasional highway riding.

What if I can't get Shell Advance Ultra - are there any other recommendations? AGIP? Castrol?

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silverluxe

· #2 · Jun 16, 2015

Honestly, I think you could probably keep the engine alive just fine running cheap Shell Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil which costs $13/gallon here in the USA. It's JASO MA rated just like Motul 7100!

I went back and forth about it myself and bought Motul 300V and am not going to use it again due to what you discovered about the double ester formula. It's racing oil, not street use oil, so it wears out faster even though it initially protects better. I also find it to make the bike behave less smoothly than whatever oil it came with when the engine is cold. Almost like the clutch is too grabby or something. Just different.

I'll probably switch to a 10W40 fully synthetic oil after this. Either Motul 7100, Mobil One, or Amsoil. They all cost about the same. I believe they're all JASO MA rated. Motul 300V is JASO MA2 rated, which is supposedly better for catalytic convertor bikes.

Motul emailed me back and told me 3000 mile oil changes with 300V and 7500 mile oil changes with 7100.

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Wild Man

· #3 · Jun 16, 2015

I'm thinking Mobil1 motorcycle specific 10W40. Not saying its the best oil but it is available @ autozone, O'reilly, Walmart, just about everywhere.

silverluxe

· #4 · Jun 16, 2015

That's kind of where I'm at. It's good enough oil for 3k mile service intervals. Also, something to note is that not all of the oil comes out of the bike when you change it, so sticking with one type is probably better. ie: i only got ~3 quarts out of the bike even though it holds 4.

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ralph

· #5 · Jun 16, 2015

When I picked up my bike I also purchased oil thinking I would change it myself and they supplied me with motorex top speed 4T 15W50. When I went for my first service at a different dealership they replaced the oil with spectro platinum 4 10W40.

marxtringer

· #6 · Jun 17, 2015

What do the oil gurus amongst us think of a 20w50 v twin synth oil for use in hot weather like USA. My engine gets super hot at the rear cyclinder, maybe a thicker oil designed for high heat would be beneficial?

Like this one
CASTROL - Power RS V-Twin 4T Motor Oil - V-Twin - Oils - Parts - Cycle Gear

Hope that link works

Meancatdaddy

· #7 · Jun 17, 2015

Shell Advance AX5 4T Mineral oil til 2500kms then the recommended Shell Advance Ultra 4T Fully Synthetic.

Ive got 1100kms on my bike now and i've changed the oil 3 times already. (First at the dealer at pick up, then at 50kms and then the first service at 1000kms)

Will change again at 1800kms with the same mineral oil.

This is just me fella's not a recommendation of any kind, I like a bike like I like fresh coffee!! I've always done this, no system really apart from doing a mineral break in to get the engine nice and tight.

They look at me like i'm mad in the dealers.

I will eventually do my own oil changes after 2500kms at home and then just do the service interval ones at Ducati.

I do a lot of motocross and I'm used to changing oil every 2.5 hrs on my bike which is all the time so i'm a bit used to doing that on any bike really.

"Oil is Oil and its better having some in than not at all" (Meancatdaddy 2015)

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igotone2

· #8 · Jun 17, 2015

I am using Mobil one 15W50 advanced full synthetic oil. The stuff comes from WallyWorld on sale at about $23.50 for 5 quarts. I use that oil in my HD 2012 Road Glide and it has 43,000 miles on it and seems to work fine. I change the oil in everything I own at 5,000 mile intervals so maintenance is easy to remember - just glance at the odo. The break in oil from my Scrambler was changed before I took it in to dealer for 1000 Km check and it had a very strange appearance. The oil had a distinct metallic sheen to it as though it was full of aluminum dust speckles. If the oil has a similar appearance on next oil change I will send some of it away to be analyzed. I will not wait 5000 miles for this though! Hopefully it is clutch particles or something benign!

silverluxe

· #9 · Jun 17, 2015

The price is definitely right on the 15w50 from Mobile One, but it isn't JASO MA rated. I think in theory it could mess with a wet clutch or perhaps cause other issues, but if it's working that's great!

My oil that came out on the first change looked like brains full of metal.

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igotone2

· #10 · Jun 17, 2015

silverluxe said:
The price is definitely right on the 15w50 from Mobile One, but it isn't JASO MA rated. I think in theory it could mess with a wet clutch or perhaps cause other issues, but if it's working that's great!

My oil that came out on the first change looked like brains full of metal.

What a perfect description - exactly what mine looked like! I'm glad I'm not alone in this since I pretty much have been riding it like I stole it! Where did all this stuff come from? Are you worried about it? Did second oil change look like this?

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silverluxe

· #11 · Jun 17, 2015

I haven't made it to the second oil change yet. I've never seen oil come out and separate like that before though.

If anyone is worried about all the metal shavings, part of what we're paying for with expensive synthetic oil is its ability to encase solids and handle them. I used to drive a diesel car and the oil was soot black 200 miles after I changed it and it had 10k mile service intervals. We have to trust in chemistry

I really hope my oil does NOT look like that when I drain it here in a month or so. I'm going to change the oil at 1500 miles just because I'm curious though.

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tonyjuliano

· #12 · Jun 18, 2015

silverluxe said:
I haven't made it to the second oil change yet. I've never seen oil come out and separate like that before though.

If anyone is worried about all the metal shavings, part of what we're paying for with expensive synthetic oil is its ability to encase solids and handle them. I used to drive a diesel car and the oil was soot black 200 miles after I changed it and it had 10k mile service intervals. We have to trust in chemistry

I really hope my oil does NOT look like that when I drain it here in a month or so. I'm going to change the oil at 1500 miles just because I'm curious though.

That is ABSOLUTELY normal - both the presence of the shavings and the "brain-like" appearance (this is caused by condensation - water vapor - contaminating the break-in oil).

silverluxe

· #13 · Jun 19, 2015

Where'd the water vapor come from as compared to any other regular oil change? I just figured it was some weird combo of chemicals they throw in there from the factory, or are they shipped dry to the dealers?

tonyjuliano

· #14 · Jun 19, 2015

silverluxe said:
Where'd the water vapor come from as compared to any other regular oil change? I just figured it was some weird combo of chemicals they throw in there from the factory, or are they shipped dry to the dealers?

When they test the motors on the bench (before final assembly) heat is obviously produced. Then the motor sits for a while, while its assembled, then while its shipped.

If you have ever let a bike sit for a long while - unused - then ran it again, you will see much of the same, if you drop the oil right away.

Under normal, regular use, it make its way out.

PeteI

· #15 · Jun 19, 2015

silverluxe said:
That's kind of where I'm at. It's good enough oil for 3k mile service intervals. Also, something to note is that not all of the oil comes out of the bike when you change it, so sticking with one type is probably better. ie: i only got ~3 quarts out of the bike even though it holds 4.

did you tip the bike on its side both direction and turn it upside down and shake it?

I'm putting roughly 450, 900 roundtrip miles on it on Monday and was advised to not worry about the oil or filter til I get back by the dealer himself. I was ready to change it now at 350 myself. Wanted a fresh everything for the run Im going to put on it. Service tech told me it would be a waste.

outofthebox

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jun 19, 2015

silverluxe said:
or are they shipped dry to the dealers?

they don't ship the bikes dry.

silverluxe

· #17 · Jun 19, 2015

PeteI said:
did you tip the bike on its side both direction and turn it upside down and shake it?
I'm putting roughly 450, 900 roundtrip miles on it on Monday and was advised to not worry about the oil or filter til I get back by the dealer himself. I was ready to change it now at 350 myself. Wanted a fresh everything for the run Im going to put on it. Service tech told me it would be a waste.

I had it stood up so the main drain bolt should be the low point. I think the oil stays in the oil cooler or up in the engine and needs longer than 15 minutes to drain out completely.

As much metal as I had in my oil I was glad to get it out of there, but I'm sure it'll be fine for 1300 miles or whatever you end up with.

outofthebox

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jun 20, 2015

Pro Italia store has 4T engine oils from three brands on offer (mineral, semi-synth and full synthetic):
1. Motul
2. Silkolene
3. Motorex

Pro-Italia being a Ducati shop, I assume these are recommended or used in Ducati bikes.

Motorcycle Oil & Chemicals - Motorcycle Parts - Engine Oils - Pro Italia

Anyone has any views/experience of Silkolene or Motorex oils?

marxtringer

· #19 · Jun 20, 2015

silverluxe said:
The price is definitely right on the 15w50 from Mobile One, but it isn't JASO MA rated. I think in theory it could mess with a wet clutch or perhaps cause other issues, but if it's working that's great!

My oil that came out on the first change looked like brains full of metal.

Mine looked exactly like this at 50 miles, refilled with Castrol 10w40 semi synth and just changed again at 200 miles and the oil looks like it would normally! No glitteriness and no watery streaks. I refilled with the same brand 20w50 to see if it quietens the clutch? I plan on sending it in at 600 for the 1st service by Ducati and from then on i plan on using Castrol 10w50 fully synth.

After 2 oil changes now I can confirm that you only need 3 quarts of oil for a change and the side plug at the back works well as a drain on the side stand. It's so simple to change the oil on this bike it took me less than 30 mins today and under $50 for oil and OEM filter..... No excuses for not doing it yourself, my wife could probably do it! :x

silverluxe

· #20 · Jun 22, 2015

I might use Castrol 06412 Power RS 10w50 oil the next go around because it's the cheapest JASO MA2 rated oil I've seen so far.

It splits the difference between 10w40 and 15w50. Maybe gas mileage would increase slightly. I don't know. They sell it in 6 quart 'cases' on Amazon for 46 dollars which might get you two complete change-outs on the Scrambler since I only got 3 quarts out when I drained the oil last time.

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