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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone here gone to the trouble of re-routing cables following a handlebar change?

I changed out my bars to a very flat wide bar and I don't like the way the clutch routes now.

I'm curious how on the forum who changed to Full Throttle bars themselves, and how they addressed the cables lengths.

Jay
 

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I'd love to see a picture of the bars. I've been thinking about getting some Rizoma dragbars myself.

-Jason
 

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Has anyone here gone to the trouble of re-routing cables following a handlebar change?



I changed out my bars to a very flat wide bar and I don't like the way the clutch routes now.



I'm curious how on the forum who changed to Full Throttle bars themselves, and how they addressed the cables lengths.



Jay


I changed the my icon bars to be FT bars myself but didn't reroute the cables as it looked fine. I am planning on swapping them out for the woodcraft 1 inch kit which is a little lower than the FT and might reroute then, so any insight people can provide that have done it is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Flat bars...

I'd love to see a picture of the bars. I've been thinking about getting some Rizoma dragbars myself.

-Jason
I'll post some pics tomorrow (night now) of the LSL bars that I installed. I bought them originally to install on a BMW K11RS Scrambler build, which never got started.

- Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some pics of my installed LSL handlebar and the resulting cable routing:





Maybe those here don't think the clutch cable looks "kinked", but I would rather it come straight out from the adjuster.

I have no issue with hydraulic lines (i.e., brake only in the case of the Scrambler) being not so straight, but those with cables shouldn't have any excessive friction/resistance in my mind.

Makes adjustments difficult and can accelerate wear. I have already removed the three tie warps holding the clutch cable to the frame (on the right side), but there isn't room to feed the excess length.

I'm thinking there is an alternate top section of the clutch cable that is shorter on the FT.

Any thoughts?

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Interesting routing but I would say that the angle of the brake and clutch lever is way too extreme.
I would agree with you until I saw a Full Throttle on a dealers floor today.

Besides the fact the I have the brake line pointing down versus up, the clutch is nearly identical.



Regardless, I don't like it and I will see about re-routing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
More cable re-routing. Moved the clutch cable to the other side of the headlight much better"flow". Not much room to play with; Ducati's got everything tied up nicely under their cowl. I guess when they're thinking modifications, they're thinking we'll use their components. It seems my LSL bar isn't as wide as the one on the Full Throttle; I can't run my brake cable at the same angle - it hits the speedometer.




Maybe I should think of buying their Full Throttle handlebar set-up, but I wanted to try what I had on the shelf first.
 

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How to move clutch cable

I just had my Icon stock bars swapped out for the lower FT bars. The dealer has routed the clutch cable to the right side of the headlight (as seen from the saddle) but it's almost impossible to get the key in the ignition. I see on everyone else's posts the clutch belongs to the left.

How do I physically move the cable? Do I need to take out the headlight cowl? Any help appreciated - especially with pictures!
 

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Here's how my dealer moved the clutch cable. It operates OK but gets in the way of the ignition. New FT bars though are awesome - makes handling so much better around town than the high bars
 

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I have FT bars and the clutch cable runs down the left side of the headlamp along with the throttle cable and front brake line. I have no problem with it.
 

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It is not hard, through the wonders of internet, to see what the stock full throttle clutch cable looks like (see attached image). Some look like this, some also look better, but the fact is that some of them come from the factory exactly like this - the cable bends significantly upwards and forwards, makes a 270 degree loop and dives down. I don't think this is a problem because the cable is meant to be bent, and operated while being bent. It bends down the way towards the clutch many more times. There is a minimum allowable bend radius to every cable, but as long as this is not exceeded, or fallen under rather, all should be fine.
 

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