One is all that is necessary.
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Chain Adjustment
My other bike is a K1200S shaft drive -- I haven't had to adjust a chain in a long while!
Quick question: when adjusting the chain on the Scrambler I assume it's necessary to loosen both wheel nuts...or will loosening one side allow enough play in the axle for aligning both sides?
Quick question: when adjusting the chain on the Scrambler I assume it's necessary to loosen both wheel nuts...or will loosening one side allow enough play in the axle for aligning both sides?
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Thanks Tony...I'll loosen the side with the chain unless you guys suggest otherwise.
Just a tip.
I always mark the lines on the adjuster with a magic marker on both sides before I start.
It gives me a reference point, always move the wheel the same amount on both sides.
Terry
I always mark the lines on the adjuster with a magic marker on both sides before I start.
It gives me a reference point, always move the wheel the same amount on both sides.
Terry
Thanks Terry and Tony...
Any other suggestions welcomed.
Any other suggestions welcomed.
I just did this and the only nut that came loose was the one on the right, but I was only using one ratchet. They're both hooked to the same threaded 'tube'.
Torque spec to reinstall is 106 foot pounds, which is hefty... Just beware. Ducati wants you to hit that number +- 5% as well.
1/4 turn of the 8mm wrench to adjust the tighteners can go a long way in tightening the chain so beware that you won't have to adjust things too much. My chain went from about 35mm of slop down to about 22mm slop before I called it good enough and put it back together. It did tighten up the feeling noticeably though, so it pays to keep your chain at the right tension.
Torque spec to reinstall is 106 foot pounds, which is hefty... Just beware. Ducati wants you to hit that number +- 5% as well.
1/4 turn of the 8mm wrench to adjust the tighteners can go a long way in tightening the chain so beware that you won't have to adjust things too much. My chain went from about 35mm of slop down to about 22mm slop before I called it good enough and put it back together. It did tighten up the feeling noticeably though, so it pays to keep your chain at the right tension.
Too tight can cause the suspension to not work in optimal range. Not that the stock suspension could get any worse.
Thanks for the additional comments. Interesting that you mention the right nut, because the pic in the manual only shows/labels the nut on the right.I just did this and the only nut that came loose was the one on the right, but I was only using one ratchet. They're both hooked to the same threaded 'tube'.
Torque spec to reinstall is 106 foot pounds, which is hefty... Just beware. Ducati wants you to hit that number +- 5% as well.
1/4 turn of the 8mm wrench to adjust the tighteners can go a long way in tightening the chain so beware that you won't have to adjust things too much. My chain went from about 35mm of slop down to about 22mm slop before I called it good enough and put it back together. It did tighten up the feeling noticeably though, so it pays to keep your chain at the right tension.
Also, I see 106 foot pounds is equivalent to 145 NM as per the manual. Did you have any trouble tightening up just one side or need a wrench on the left side as well to torque it?
And thanks regarding the sensitivity of the adjustment screws.
Thanks...good to keep in mind...it needs to be just right.Too tight can cause the suspension to not work in optimal range. Not that the stock suspension could get any worse.
It appeared out-of-spec on side stand, but when free wheeling on paddock measured 1 inch at tightest point...so I guess still within spec at 1300 miles.
Hmm, but manual indicates to put on side stand when measuring...I guess to add some load to the suspension.
Are you guys checking the chain tension loaded in some fashion or unloaded on a paddock?
Are you guys checking the chain tension loaded in some fashion or unloaded on a paddock?
Appears most say there's a such a small difference between adjusting on the paddock vs side, that its inconsequential.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
Appears most say there's a such a small difference between adjusting on the paddock vs side, that its inconsequential.
What do you guys think?
I believe it's just easier to perform this service as per instructions, then there is never a doubt about anything moving forward.
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Thanks Tony...
As I recall, the nut is 30mm...is that correct?
As I recall, the nut is 30mm...is that correct?
Correct...Thanks Tony...
As I recall, the nut is 30mm...is that correct?
Ed, I did not have trouble applying the 106 ft/lb of torque. The bolt itself held fast while I tightened the nut. I did not need to have a wrench on the other side of the bike. If you set your chain tension with the rear tire in the air it's gonna be mucho screwed up with the bike sitting back on the ground.
I have a Condor wheel chock that I park my bike in, so I did it that way. Kind of hard to see here, but I store the bike upright like that and work on it with the wheel chocked so it's sitting level when I am changing the oil or what ever. I drag the chock stand to the center of the garage and put the bike into it.
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I have a Condor wheel chock that I park my bike in, so I did it that way. Kind of hard to see here, but I store the bike upright like that and work on it with the wheel chocked so it's sitting level when I am changing the oil or what ever. I drag the chock stand to the center of the garage and put the bike into it.
Thanks, makes sense to be weighted...as the manual also indicates side stand, that the measurements are based on...
Also, is it correct to leave the cir-clips on when turning the adjustment screws?
Yes! If you remove the circlips the screws wall fall out.Also, is it correct to leave the cir-clips on when turning the adjustment screws?
Thanks buddy
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